1904 / 1972
Napoli, Italy ; Rome, Italy
Emilio Schuberth was born on June 8th in 1904 in Napoli, from a Spanish mother and, allegedly, a either Saxon or Hungarian father. He is known as one of the founders of Italy's modern Fashion industry, although little is known about his early years and his artisitc training. According to his later reports, he studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Naples.
In 1929 he married Maria Jelasi. Soon after the coupled moved to Rome, where Shuberth could continue his passion for creativity and passion, working as a tailor-apprentice at Montorsi tailor's workshop.
In 1938, he opened his own couture-hats millinery on via Frattina, not far from the famous Spanish steps. Among his illustrious customers was the countess Ratti, a niece of pope Pio XI. Following her advice, in 1940 Schuberth opened his own atelier for women fashion and established his own company, "Schuberth Emilio," famously located in via XX Settembre and decorated with Murano glasses and elegant Italian furniture.
After 1945, his masterpieces were well received by many within Cinecitta’ and with many well-known American and Italian actresses such as Rita Hayworth, Bette David, Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida, contributing to make him known as the ‘divas’ tailor. His clothing became popular because it incorporated the aesthetic of both the 50s and that found within Italian cinema during the postwar-era. Schuberth's style highlighted the 'bella figura', which played on the Italian feminine ideal.
He grew in popularity in December, 1948, following his participation in the fashion show Moda francese? Moda italiana ("French Fashion? Italian Fashion") at the Casino de la Vallée di Saint Vincent (in Aosta Valley).
In February 1951, he was among the designers invited by Giovanni Battista Giorgini to participate in the first Italian High Fashion show, which marked the international debut of Italian fashion. The show was a success, especially among American fashion buyers who largely attended the Florentine event.
In the Fall of 1951, New York department store Bergdorf Goodman bought and presented to the US audience ten of Schuberth's most famous fashion pieces, including Cifrario segreto, Molto amata, Oggi ho venti anni, Celeste orizzonte. The following year, he was part of the so-called Carovana volante della moda, a group of eight Italian designers who were welcomed at New York Grand Central Palace during the urban fair dedicated to Italian manufacturers.
In 1953, together with the Fontana sisters, Mingolini-Gugenheim, Garnett and Simonetta and other leading Italian fashion designers, he was among the founders of the Italian High Fashion Syndicate (SIAM). In July 1954, the SIAM organized the first Italian High Fashion Show in Rome, in the prestigious setting of Castel Sant'Angelo.
Throughout his life he became a master of Italian fashion and his students included Valentino and Roberto Capucci.
Schuberth died in January of 1972 in his home in Rome due to a heart attack. In the course of his life he had made a major contribution to the appreciation of Italian fashion in the United States.
Related Vectors
Sophia Loren
actress
Valentino
Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani
Bergdorf Goodman
New York
Giovanni Battista Giorgini
imprenditore
First Italian High Fashion Show
Fashion show
Sorelle Fontana
Fashion Designer
Roberto Capucci
Zoe Fontana
Giovanna Fontana
Micol Fontana
Sorelle Fontana
fashion house
Sources
Sofia Gnoli, Un secolo di moda italiana, Milano: Meltemi editore, 1990.
Emilio Schiberth Website: https://emilioschuberth.it/.
"Emilio Schuberth, a Couturier In High‐Fashion, Dies in Rome," The New York Times, January 6, 1972.
Giampaolo Benati, "Emilio Schuberth: the Tailor of the Stars, La Dolce Vita," EmmeMagazine, April 26, 2016.
Maria Natalina Trivisano, "Schuberth, Federico Emilio," in Dizionario Biografico degli italiani, Volume 91 (2018).
Metmuseum.org. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/87361.